I am, once again, in Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, waiting to board the car ferry for Nova Scotia. It has been a long day with about seven hours of driving from Dildo Run Provincial Park, outside Twilingate.
In some ways I am sad to go . . . the people and scenery here are magnificent. Even though about half of my time on the island was spent in grey and wet weather, the contry just seems to explode with color when the sun breaks through the clouds. If you like seafood, lobster here is selling for about $7.50 a pound, and the fresh cod is incredible!Also, the Provincial Parks in Newfoundland are well laid out, excellantly maintained, staffed by friendly and helpful people, and each offers a slightly different look into the nature of Newfoundland. I got to see moose and caribou closer than I ever imagined in the wild. I had a special encounter with a Red Fox and shared crackers with a very Brazen Jay!
The biggest thing I think I will miss is the lack of mass humanity. I drove for almost four hours today down the Trans Canadian Highway without a single, solitary car falling in behind me! It is Sunday, and for the first three hours of my drive, none of the gas stations or convenience stores were open, no one was stirring in any of the villages I passed through, because there is just not that “sense” of hurry here! Sunday is a day of rest . . . like it was when I was a child!! Life in Newfoundland is so much slower paced and lower stress than America . . . and people just seem happier here!
On the down side . . . two things . . . POTHOLES and BLACK FLIES!! Depending on where you are in Newfoundland, and what the population (tax) base is in the area is, so goes the condition of the roads. Main Roads that link population hubs are in generally good repair. Last winter was very, very hard on the transportation infrastructure across the Province, but road crews are out all ove the TCH filling holes and laying new asphalt. Yet, as you drive further and further off the main roadways, like the feeder roads to some of the more isolated fishing vilages, the roads can get “interesting”. The roads to a couple of the villages were not even paved but were manicured gravel. The potholes, if you were not constantly on your guard, could throw you for a loop . . . so I became very good at having “moose eyes” as well as “pothole eyes”!
The last two and a half days brought a warming trend to the coastal areas around Twilingate. With the warmer weather came the initial onset of gnats, mosquitoes and worst Black Flies. How all of these did not die off under the snow and freezing weather this past winter I do not know . . . but yesterday was my first true experience with dealing with biting Black Flies . . . and they are horrible. The worst ones are those that somehow would get between my eye and the inside of my glasses!! I cannot tell you how many times I whacked myself in the face trying to get the flies to go the hell away!! And people, this was only day two of the hotter weather . . . I cannot imagine how bad the insects must be by mid-summer!
As I sit here in the ferry terminal, I am going to get caught up on a bunch of photos that I want to share with you . . . so here goes!
My whole reason for coming to Dildo Run Provincial Park was two-fold. First, to see if there REALLY was such a place, and second, because of the Park’s proximity to the town of Twilingate, Newfoundland. Twilingate is renowned for the icebergs that show up in it’s little harbor when the bergs start migrating south down “Iceberg Alley” to the north of Newfoundland.
By the way, as it was explained to me by a Newfoundlander, a “Dildo” is a large crevasse or hole. “Dildo Run” is named for the circular bay that it sits on! The person that told me this was having a really hard time keeping a straight face and not snickering the entire time!! LOL
This is the harbor at Twilingate. As you can see, it is iceberg free but there were two bergs here a week ago which have completely melted away! It is still a very low key, quiet and humble little village.Out past Twilingate is another, much smaller, village known as Crow Head. Past the village of Crow Head, on a high and rocky promintory, overlooking the cold and vast North Atlantic and “Iceberg Alley” is Long Point Lighthouse. This picture was taken on June 9th, another grey, windy day on the coast.
If you stop in Crow Head, visit the Crow Head Restaurant and try the Chili. Best I think I have ever had, WITH the homemade biscuit!!
The shore line that extends out beyond the Lighthouse, with the seas being churned by the wind. I enjoy the ocean when it is agitated, especially if I am on the beach!
I was once again cold and wet, and not liking what the skies had to offer in the way of light. So I went back to the park. The only good thing I did find at the lighthouse was that the gift shop sold Bubblegum Ice Cream! Ask my kids to tell you how much I LOVE Bubblegum Ice Cream Milk Shakes!!
After setting up the tent and taking a nap (I LOVE NAPS almost as much as Ice Cream!!) I awoke to a bright break in the weather. One of the park rangers had told me about the ONLY hiking trail in Dildo Run (about 5 kilometers round trip) so I grabbed some water and headed out. The first 2 kilometers were a ratty, wet, muddy, root choked trail . . . that suddenly turned into these stairs.The stairs led down and up, up and down, through a thick and dark Arboreal Forest. The reason for the stairs and elevated walkway was to protect the forest floor which is a heavy and thick growth of moss and lichen.The forest floor growth has carpeted everything. I thought I saw it move once or twice, and even heard something scurrying around under it . . . and I decided not to put my hand on moss to test how thick it was . . . again “Rule #1!” I have seen that sci-fi movie where the moss eats the unsuspecting tourist!!and the trail just kept going . . . . . . and Going!!Abruptly the trail broke into the sunlight, onto an elevated platform, on top of a massive rock of limestone, overlooking what I was to learn are the “New World Islands” The entire archipeligo around Twilingate is actually a series of small islands, all connected by either causeways of ferries, into one large and active community. It is almost magical when you see it!!
Thus ended the 9th of June. I went back to my tent and was again asleep by 7 PM . . . until the pounding rain woke me up at around 2 AM!! LOL Thus, the 10th of June was a domestic day. I donned my rain gear, rounded up my laundry, and trudged to the comfort center with the washer and dryer and got it all done, folded and put away. Then I pulled out my large container of food stuffs and got it reinventoried and reorganized. I then read my book for a while, filled out postcards for the grands, and even drafted the blog I sent yesterday. So . . . sometimes rain days are good days!!
The 11th of June started beautifully. The sun was out and up, the little birds were singing and woke me at 4:50 AM (I want to kill them!!). I got dressed, made breakfast, packed everything up and headed back to Twilingate in hopes that maybe, just maybe, a new berg had drifted in from over the horizon. No such luck! LOL But . . . as you can see, the Lighthouse was much more photogenic in the sunshine! ( . . . and they still had more bubblegum ice cream!!)The surf along the coast had settled down significantly. This is the Canadian Coast Guard Bouy Tender from Twilingate going on patrol for 28 days. I know that because I spoke with one of the senior enlisted crewmembers earlier at Foodland! He told me that they periodically need to check navigational beacons for damage from passing icebergs. Sounds like fun!!I decided to go on another short 5 kilometer hike south of the lighthouse. The coast is just beautiful and the light was perfect. The trail runs along the edge of the cliffs, and as I was going up, people coming back down the trail kept telling me to not slip and fall to the right . . . it was a pretty long drop to the rocks!The view was magnificent!If you look close enough, you can still see my Subaru in the parking lot!The trail was very well defined, a narrow path through the peat moss and Heath growing on both sides.It was easy to see . . . fading into the distance! Did they say only 5 kilometers??Nothing in NEwfoundland is flat. It all seems to go up at angles meant for sheep . . . . . . or some meant for mountain goats!!Yet . . . the views truly are worth the effort!And at trails end you arrive at this wonderful overlook, gazing back at the south side of Twilingate. It was not until I stood here that I realized that Twilingate is actually sitting on and isthmus between two bays, north and south.long the trail I found a couple of new plants. This tiny budding plant is called Canadian Bunchberry. It grows in patches over the rocky ground, rotted into the peat. The buds are about the size of a dime.This plant grows up in small bushes, with clusters of these pink and green blossoms. This is Pink Mountain Heath.I had to get down on my knees and elbows for this shot. All four of these flowers would be covered by a nickle. They grow in individual spots along the trail . . . just a spot of gorgeous color scattered about. This is a Birds Eye Primrose.Finally, a panorama from the “Artist’s Cabin” (available for rental!!) along the backside of the trail. This is absolutely the perfect country for hiking!!And the day ended back at the lighthouse . . . just atad bit more than 5 kilometers! LOL My last real day in Newfoundland, and one of the best days so far!!
So enjoyed reading your thoughts and views on my part of the world..lol
I really enjoyed looking at your photos they are beautiful for sure ,so glad you enjoyed your visit .
Take care,
Marjorie
2 responses to “Outward Bound!”
So enjoyed reading your thoughts and views on my part of the world..lol
I really enjoyed looking at your photos they are beautiful for sure ,so glad you enjoyed your visit .
Take care,
Marjorie
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Beautiful photos and you’re quite good at expressing your thoughts.
I met you at Battery Provintial Park in St.Peter’s Nova Scotia.
Roy and I kind a helped with your electrical plug.
Keep up the good work. And enjoy your journey.
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